Mount Russell

R.J. Secor describes Russell as “the finest peak in the Mount Whitney region.” Presumably, that includes Mount Whitney! I would agree with Secor, especially if you are a rock climber thirsty for climbs above 5.7 on some of best alpine granite imaginable. But even if you aren’t into technical rock climbing, the uber-classic East Ridge (3rd class) is undeniably one of the best scrambles in the Sierra. Part of what makes this ridge walk so great is how improbable and exposed it is. Indeed, many folks turn around shortly after beginning their foray onto the wildly exposed spine of this mountain, lacking confidence in their routefinding. To be fair, it took me more than a few goes to feel like I’ve got my own routefinding dialed on this thing.

Vertical describes much of the harder climbing on Mount Russell, although all of the pitches I have done on the peak (and I’ve done many) are graced with much-welcomed rests between physically demanding jamming or liebacking on impeccable rock. Stellar ledges for belaying and enjoying the spectacular position (and for much needed rest!) abound on most of the routes.