Guided Alpine Rock Climbing on Bear Creek Spire

Located at the head of Rock Creek Canyon and the awestriking Little Lakes Valley, Bear Creek Spire (13,726’) has both a topographical and aesthetic prominence in a region that contains some of the most dramatic peaks in the range. Though nearby Mount Morgan is some twenty feet higher, Bear Creek Spire commands much more attention. Legendary Sierra climber and mountain guide Norman Clyde compared it to Europe’s Matterhorn in its appearance, with ridges dropping steeply from its summit on all sides and without any easy way up.

Next to Charlotte Dome, the North Arete route (5.8) on the Spire is one of best rock climbs of this grade in the Sierra, with a classic alpine ridge finish. The Northeast Ridge route is low 5th class, beginning as a mellow hike up a broad ridge that gradually narrows and steepens before joining the final bit of climbing shared with the North Arete route. It was Norman Clyde himself who first climbed this latter classic, giving it the grade of 4th class. Realistically, it is probably more like 5.4 excepting the little 5.6 summit block (optional).

I like to take three days when guiding the North Arete (5.8) route but I often guide the Northeast Ridge route in two days, with a very long second day. Contact me for further details and to book your Bear Creek Spire climb!